Difference between revisions of "Assembling the POP Kiosk Case"
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==Refining the Print== | ==Refining the Print== | ||
After the parts are printed and removed from the bed, there's still a few steps to go before you have a final kiosk.{{Note|Always be sure to follow the proper safety precautions.}} | |||
This process creates a fine dust of harmful microplastic particulates and involves chemicals that produce noxious fumes. You should always wear protective goggles, a mask, gloves and wash your clothes after sanding is finished. Always ensure you have adequate ventilation. | |||
=== Removing Excess Supports === | === Removing Excess Supports === | ||
When creating objects with many forms of 3D printing, you will need to remove the excess material the print uses to create support structures. The POP kiosk case is the only print that requires extensive support structures and we recommend the Cura Slicer program's "Tree Supports" option for ease of removal. | When creating objects with many forms of 3D printing, you will need to remove the excess material the print uses to create support structures. The POP kiosk case is the only print that requires extensive support structures and we recommend the Cura Slicer program's "Tree Supports" option for ease of removal. | ||
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Working in a straight line with low-grit paper can quickly remove marks from the printed surface, while sanding in tight circles with higher-grit paper can help minimize the appearance of surface anomalies. During this sanding process, you can use a spot putty to fill large gouges or soften layer lines. When using 1000-grit or higher sandpaper, you can incorporate water into the process to increase the surface polish. | Working in a straight line with low-grit paper can quickly remove marks from the printed surface, while sanding in tight circles with higher-grit paper can help minimize the appearance of surface anomalies. During this sanding process, you can use a spot putty to fill large gouges or soften layer lines. When using 1000-grit or higher sandpaper, you can incorporate water into the process to increase the surface polish. | ||
{{ExternalResource|[https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ How To Sand Your 3D Prints – Makerbot]}} | {{ExternalResource|[https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ How To Sand Your 3D Prints – Makerbot]}} | ||
=== Painting the Parts === | === Painting the Parts === | ||
Before you can use spray paint on a finished print, it is generally recommended to use a primer. Some | Before you can use spray paint on a finished print, it is generally recommended to use a primer. Some spray paint includes a primer for a one-step painting process. Hang or mount the part in a way that allows you to cover the entire surface without needing to handle the part. Use wide strokes that pass over the part being painted, but do not start or stop on it. Always try to hold the spray paint can nozzle 10" - 12" from the object. Use multiple thin layers to improve evenness and decrease paint running. It is important to let the part dry completely without handling for at least 24 hours. | ||
{{ExternalResource|[https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ How To Paint Your 3D Prints – Makerbot]}} | {{ExternalResource|[https://www.makerbot.com/professional/post-processing/sanding/ How To Paint Your 3D Prints – Makerbot]}} | ||
=== Protecting the Parts === | === Protecting the Parts === | ||
The final surface of the printed part can be sealed using a clear coat spray paint to change the surface finish and provide some minor abrasion protection to the paint. For increased durability, you can use a two-part clear epoxy resin that needs to be mixed before application. These epoxy resin come in different consistencies, creating a very different application process for each. Epoxy resins designed for 3D printed parts are generally thinner and easier to apply to parts with more complex geometries. | |||
==Securing Hardware== | ==Securing Hardware== | ||
Revision as of 17:07, 8 March 2023
Refining the Print
After the parts are printed and removed from the bed, there's still a few steps to go before you have a final kiosk.
This process creates a fine dust of harmful microplastic particulates and involves chemicals that produce noxious fumes. You should always wear protective goggles, a mask, gloves and wash your clothes after sanding is finished. Always ensure you have adequate ventilation.
Removing Excess Supports
When creating objects with many forms of 3D printing, you will need to remove the excess material the print uses to create support structures. The POP kiosk case is the only print that requires extensive support structures and we recommend the Cura Slicer program's "Tree Supports" option for ease of removal.
These supports are made to be removed and the process is generally straight forward. Using a pair of side-cutting pliers, you can cut any support connections. Then, use needle-nose pliers to remove the support structures.
Filling and Sanding the Parts
After the support structures are removed, there may be some marks left on the final part's surface. These can generally be removed by using sandpaper. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and progressively work your way up to 1500-grit sandpaper.
Working in a straight line with low-grit paper can quickly remove marks from the printed surface, while sanding in tight circles with higher-grit paper can help minimize the appearance of surface anomalies. During this sanding process, you can use a spot putty to fill large gouges or soften layer lines. When using 1000-grit or higher sandpaper, you can incorporate water into the process to increase the surface polish.
Painting the Parts
Before you can use spray paint on a finished print, it is generally recommended to use a primer. Some spray paint includes a primer for a one-step painting process. Hang or mount the part in a way that allows you to cover the entire surface without needing to handle the part. Use wide strokes that pass over the part being painted, but do not start or stop on it. Always try to hold the spray paint can nozzle 10" - 12" from the object. Use multiple thin layers to improve evenness and decrease paint running. It is important to let the part dry completely without handling for at least 24 hours.
Protecting the Parts
The final surface of the printed part can be sealed using a clear coat spray paint to change the surface finish and provide some minor abrasion protection to the paint. For increased durability, you can use a two-part clear epoxy resin that needs to be mixed before application. These epoxy resin come in different consistencies, creating a very different application process for each. Epoxy resins designed for 3D printed parts are generally thinner and easier to apply to parts with more complex geometries.
Securing Hardware
Installing the Mount System Hex Nuts
Installing Dust Screens
Installing the 30mm Fan
Installing the Panel Mount
Attaching the Maintenance Panel
Installing Electronics
Attaching the USB-C Panel Mount
Mounting the Kiosk Electronics
Finishing the Kiosk
Attaching Modular Mount Accessories
Updating the Kiosk
After we have our kiosk up and running, we can begin to update the content we display on the kiosk. This can be done through a USB flash drive on the kiosk itself, or through SSH after internet connectivity has been enabled.
| Documentation | |
|---|---|
| Installation | Look and Feel |
| Interaction Modes | Developing Activity Types |
| Creating an Interactive | Framework |
| Integrating CLIO | Contribute |
